Te Paki Coastal Track, New Zealand

‘Round the Cape

The Kiwis refer to Northland, the northernmost region in the north of the North Island, as ‘The Winterless North’. Now I’m here to tell you that winter in The Winterless North is still bloody cold, however it is just marginally warmer than the winter in The Wintermore South. Searching for every extra degree on offer, I travelled as far north as I could go, and discovered a spectacular part of Aotearoa.

For Kiwis, Cape Reinga is considered the top of the New Zealand, and is the northernmost point accessible by a major road. State Highway One, which runs the length of New Zealand, starts (or finishes) at The Cape.

I had heard that one of the best ways to see the north of the north was to walk the Te Paki Coastal Track. This 3-4 day, 48km walk follows the coast from Kapowairua in the north around Cape Reinga and south to Te Paki Stream. Not wishing to rush, I decided to plan for four days of walking, and set up camp at Kapowairua to wait for a window of clear weather. Waiting for a forecast of four fine days in a row in New Zealand could see several years pass, and in the end I settled for three.

Setting off west from Kapowairua, I walked parallel to the beach behind the foredunes, following the meandering track to the camp site at Pandora. I had the camp to myself, and whilst enjoying a snack after arrival watched dolphins hunting in the bay. A resident campground possum meant tucking my food well inside my backpack, and tucking my backpack well inside my bivvy bag, to avoid an overnight break-in.

Next morning I left Pandora and climbed up into the ranges. The views from the clifftops into the endless blue Pacific were spectacular, and the scrub reminiscent of Western Australia’s south-west coast.

A descent ended the walk for the day at the white sand and turquoise water of Tapotupotu Bay.

Day three saw a climb along the cliffs and ridgetops, and a first look at the Cape Reinga lighthouse.

Lighthouses are usually placed at the most spectacular and treacherous points of coastline, and the Cape Reinga Lighthouse is no exception. The foaming surf in the photo above is where the Tasman Sea and the South Pacific Ocean meet in a chaotic clash of waves, wind and currents.

After nearly getting blown off the Cape and away to Tahiti by a fierce south-westerly, I descended to Te Werahi Beach.  Having walked the length of the beach it was boots off to cross the tidal Te Werahi Stream.  It was here I met a Kiwi couple wading the creek heading north.  The bloke asked ‘is this your first day?’, and I answered that no, I was on day three of the Te Paki Coastal Walk, and was finishing tomorrow.  ‘Oh right’ he said, ‘this is our last day – we’ve walked from Auckland’.  Presumably he thought I’d set off from Cape Reinga for the lazy 400+km walk south to New Zealand’s biggest city.  Now that’s a hike.  

I spent the afternoon tramping the shoreline until I reached the Twilight Beach camp ground. It’s a beautiful spot, nestled next to a steep headland with sweeping views of the beach. The sunset that evening was breathtaking.

My three day fine weather envelope closed as per the forecast, with rain rolling in on my last night. After packing up next morning I left the camp for the last stretch of the walk down 90 mile Beach to Te Paki Stream.

Rain squalls and howling wind made things pretty unpleasant, and I was glad to turn inland and away from the open beach when I reached the stream.

The hike ends at the Te Paki Sand Dunes, which are impressive to say the least. As I waited for my lift I watched visitors staggering up the sides of the dunes, shrinking to tiny specks as they climbed before disappearing over the crests.

The variety of spectacular landscapes traversed when rounding Cape Reinga makes the Te Paki Coastal Track a very enjoyable walk. I definitely agree that it’s one of the best ways to see the north of the north.

For more on the Te Paki Coastal Track click here

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