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The Nürburgring

The Nürburgring

‘For a quick lap at the Nürburgring, you’ve probably experienced more in seven minutes…than most people have experienced in all their life in the way of fear, in the way of tension, in the way of animosity towards machinery and to a racetrack.’ Jackie Stewart, three-time F1 World Champion When I was a kid, I used to love Australian touring car racing. Holden versus Ford (there were other makes in the mix, but they were a sideshow to the Big…

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Exploring the Westwall

Exploring the Westwall

‘I ordered the immediate expansion of our western fortifications. I can assure you that since May 28, the most gigantic fortifications of all time have been under construction there.’ Adolf Hitler, Nazi Part rally in Nuremberg, 1938. I had traveled to the small town of Pirmasens in Rhineland-Palatinate to visit a Ukrainian friend of mine. She, like many other displaced Ukrainians, has found refuge in Germany whilst waiting for peace to return to her country. At the closest point, Pirmasens…

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Technology Museum Speyer

Technology Museum Speyer

I’d had a great time at the Technology Museum Sinsheim, so when I found myself on the other side of the Rhine, I thought I’d better go and check out its sister museum in Speyer. The Technology Museum Speyer is a little smaller than Sinsheim, but it still provided a very enjoyable couple of days gawping at old cars, bikes, and a whole bunch of other stuff. After handing over my euros, I scanned my ticket and pushed through the…

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Leaving Bosnia Herzegovina

Leaving Bosnia Herzegovina

It has been a fascinating visit to Bosnia Herzegovina. I have learned a lot about the tiny nation’s turbulent history, and also enjoyed getting out and about to enjoy some of its beautiful natural areas. Sadly, during my stay, war has once again broken out in Europe. After amassing forces on the border with Ukraine, Russia, despite repeated assurances to the contrary, have now invaded their neighbour. My plan after leaving BiH was to head to Croatia, but now I…

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Leaving Serbia

Leaving Serbia

It took a little effort to get into Serbia, with a bum steer* from a bus company and Novak Djokovic’s 2021 Australian Open debacle nearly derailing my attempts. But after a shaky start I have enjoyed my time here in the largest of the former Yugoslavian countries. However the time has come to be leaving Serbia. From here I’m going to cross the border into Bosnia and Herzegovena, so I’ll let you know what I what I find. Until then…

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Lost and found in translation

Lost and found in translation

I loitered outside the bakery in Tirana, the capital of Albania, looking in my wallet for Albanian lek. I find that having a few smaller denomination notes identified before I go into a shop saves fumbling for money at the till while the locals are lining up behind. Into the bakery I strode, and selected the goodies I was after. The lady identified me as a foreigner (not hard), and kindly wrote down the total on a piece of paper…

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The Zastava 750 ‘Fica’

The Zastava 750 ‘Fica’

Mini motoring in the former Yugoslavia The former Yugoslavia was comprised of Serbia, Bosnia and Herzegovena, Macedonia, Montenegro, Croatia and Slovenia, and existed from after World War II until it began to disintegrate in mid-1991. During this period a thriving motor industry exisited within the Republic, producing some interesting, funky and just plain shithouse cars. In order to support the local industry, vehicles brought into Yugoslavia were slugged with a whopping 41% import duty. Needless to say, this tax, plus…

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Red Cross Concentration Camp

Red Cross Concentration Camp

Dark Tourism in Nis, Part II I crossed the Nisava River, after which the Serbian city of Nis is named, and headed north through steady drizzle. Another kilometre and I reached my destination: the foreboding walls of the Red Cross Concentration Camp. I followed the tall concrete until I reached the entrance gate, and stepped inside. Looking up the long path that lead to the large, grey, block-like building, I shuddered involuntarily. The silent, deserted place was chilling. I walked…

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Skull Tower

Skull Tower

Dark Tourism in Nis, Part I The city of Nis, now the third largest in Serbia, has a long history. It was part of the mighty Roman Empire, and the birthplace of the Emperor Constantine. A city of culture and wealth, it was located on the main route between Europe and the Middle East. A long history will record triumph and glory, but also tragedy and terror. Two sites within Nis allow visitors a glimpse into the latter; evidence of…

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Leaving Kosovo

Leaving Kosovo

I returned to the bus terminal where I had arrived in Kosovo a week before. I had a bit of time up my sleeve as I wasn’t sure exactly where my bus for Serbia would leave from. A walk through the terminal area and I was none the wiser. I couldn’t see a sign for my bus company anywhere, and the people I asked had no idea where the departure point was either. I ended up messaging the provider who…

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